Everyone believes that cowboys and outlaws of the Wild West donned cowboy hats, but this is a widespread misconception. In reality, this idea is rooted in myth.

The Wild West, also referred to as the Old West, includes the regions known as the American frontier. However, defining the frontier is complicated; it essentially refers to areas that the "civilized" settlers—initially the British and later the Americans—considered uncivilized.

This means that the areas categorized as Wild West varied significantly depending on the historical context.

For instance, at one point, it included almost all of North America. The American frontier began to be settled in 1607 with the founding of Jamestown, and anything west of that settlement was considered wild.

However, the classic Wild West period is typically identified as occurring between 1865 and 1890, focusing primarily on states like Texas, Kansas, Arizona, and California.

Regardless of the specific dates or locations referenced, whether from 1607 to 1912 or just the classic era, the conclusion remains unchanged: cowboys did not wear cowboy hats.

So, what did they wear?

Before the classic period, the concept of cowboys as we envision them today didn't exist in the U.S. The headwear of farmers and townsfolk in frontier areas included styles like the tricorn, which was quite popular in the 18th century, especially after the American Revolution.

They also wore beaver hats for colder climates, the capotain (also known as the sugarloaf hat), top hats, slouch hats, tarpaulin hats, straw hats, and many other variations.

In regions like Texas, Kansas, Arizona, and California, hats inspired by the Mexican sombrero—first created in the 15th century—were likely the most common.

This prevalence is due to the fact that prior to the classic era, these areas were largely inhabited by Mexican and Spanish people, as they were formerly part of Mexico. Thus, instead of cowboys, there were vaqueros (Mexican cowboys, who greatly influenced the American cowboy), who wore sombreros.

After the U.S. annexed the southwestern territories in 1848, a surge of Anglo-European settlers arrived, bringing with them bowler hats. By the classic Wild West era, the bowler hat had become the most common headgear, even among cowboys.

But what made the bowler hat so popular?

The timing was crucial; the cowboy hat hadn’t been invented yet, while the bowler hat had been created in 1849 by William and Thomas Bowler for the Earl of Leicester. It was designed specifically to fit well and provide protection for the Earl's gamekeepers and coachmen.

This made the bowler hat ideal for various laborers of the era, as it effectively acted as a hard hat. Whether riding horses or working on railroads, it provided the necessary protection, making it a popular choice among the working class worldwide.

As a result, when working-class individuals moved into the newly acquired U.S. territories, they brought the bowler hat—often referred to as a derby in the U.S.—leading to its widespread popularity in the West.

In Texas, however, slouch hats and sombreros, along with similar styles, gained traction among early settlers and cowboys. Other types of hats were also worn, like the hardee hat (a Civil War-era style) and various wide-brimmed hats, but slouch hats and sombreros were particularly prevalent.

This preference for wide-brimmed hats in sunny states like Texas was practical, as residents needed protection from the sun. Settlers often emulated the existing cowboys and vaqueros, favoring sombreros and other wide-brimmed styles for outdoor work.

It’s important to note that European settlers, including cowboys, likely wore wide-brimmed hats in sunny conditions while opting for bowler hats or similar styles in town, especially during winter months. In these regions, straw hats were common in summer, while felt hats were preferred in winter.

In summary, sombreros and bowler hats constituted the true headgear of Wild West cowboys, not the cowboy hats we envision today.

Mexican sombreros and bowler hats were indeed the authentic cowboy hats of the Wild West. Prominent early 20th-century author Lucius Beebe even referred to bowler hats as the headgear that won the West. Cowboys, outlaws, townsfolk, farmers, railroad workers, and miners all donned them.

Though these were not the only styles available, there was a remarkable variety of hats during this time compared to today due to the absence of a global fashion industry, leading to numerous local styles.

If you peruse photographs from the era, you’ll notice a vast array of different hat styles. Nevertheless, bowler hats and sombreros were the most commonly worn by cowboys, with sombreros serving as work hats and bowlers as everyday wear.

Considering the significant number of vaqueros and Californios in the southwestern territories—estimates suggest that nearly 40% of cowboys were Mexican or Mexican American—it is likely that sombreros were the most frequently worn headgear among cowboys.

This raises an interesting question: why does popular culture portray the cowboy in a different light?

The answer lies with Hollywood, which perpetuates the image of high-crowned, wide-brimmed Stetson hats worn by stars like John Wayne and Clint Eastwood.

But why did Hollywood choose to depict these stars in inaccurate hats? If the goal is to portray the Wild West authentically, shouldn’t the representation be true to history?

Unfortunately, Hollywood does not always prioritize accuracy. When these films were made, ranchers in Texas were indeed wearing the typical cowboy hats we recognize today. The high-crowned, wide-brimmed Stetsons had become popular by then.

Thus, filmmakers opted to dress their characters in the hats of the present rather than reflect the historical reality of the time. This is evident in the differing styles of John Wayne and Clint Eastwood.

John Wayne's cowboy persona was established just before the peak silent film era of the early 1900s. Directors would often cast real cowboys from that period as extras, and since those cowboys typically wore large hats like the sombrero-inspired ten-gallon hat, the Stetson became the defining image of a cowboy.

However, as fashion evolved, so too did the cowboy's appearance. By the time Clint Eastwood starred in westerns, his style reflected contemporary trends, differing significantly from that of John Wayne.

This is a common pattern in Hollywood storytelling. For instance, in "Braveheart," Scottish characters are depicted wearing kilts centuries before they actually did.

As for why bowler hats and sombreros eventually fell out of favor among cowboys, it relates to changing times and fashions. Specifically in Texas, the decline of these hats' popularity began after the American Civil War.

Following the Union's victory in the Civil War, the government intensified efforts to impose "law and order" in the Wild West, a term that then referred to all areas west of the Mississippi River.

The military was instrumental in these efforts, primarily targeting Native Americans who resisted the encroachment of settlers.

The military's presence also contributed to the rise of the cowboy hat's popularity, as Stetson hats gained traction among cavalry members seeking alternatives to their regulation headgear. Stetson introduced a cavalry hat in the late 1860s.

The regulation hat of the 1870s was the forage cap, which was less suited for the harsh climates of Arizona and Texas compared to Stetsons with their wide brims.

Despite Stetson's burgeoning popularity among military personnel, it did not become the go-to choice for cowboys until later in the period. This means that Stetsons, which laid the groundwork for modern cowboy hats, were not widely adopted until after the Wild West era had effectively ended.

Even notorious outlaws from the 1890s, including members of the Wild Bunch like Sundance Kid and Butch Cassidy, primarily wore bowler hats for daily activities.

This indicates that even the so-called "cowboys" often sported bowler hats.

While Stetsons began gaining traction in Texas earlier than elsewhere, they were primarily favored by wealthier individuals, as these hats were expensive.

Wealthy residents wanted to avoid being seen in sombreros or similar hats, which created a demand for a new type of hat that was culturally Anglo and suitable for Texas.

The Boss of the Plains hat, created by John Stetson in 1865, aimed to fill this gap and eventually succeeded, mainly due to the military's use of Stetsons.

However, the hat didn't fill that niche until it became affordable, which only occurred after it went into mass production in 1885. Even then, no hat truly resembled the modern cowboy hat until well into the 20th century.

In conclusion, the genuine gunslingers, outlaws, and cowboys of the classic Wild West era did not wear cowboy hats. Instead, they sported a variety of headgear, including sombreros, Spanish-influenced hats, slouch hats, top hats, hardee hats, forage hats, beaver hats, straw hats, and European-style wide-brimmed hats—most notably bowler hats.

Thus, the authentic hats of the Wild West belong to bowler hats and sombreros, as they were the most practical and fashionable options of the time.

And while John Wayne may look iconic in his Stetson, it’s unlikely he would have seemed as cool in either of those hats.

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