The Pinna Nobilis

According to Brendan Burke, an archeologist at the University of Victoria, the Pinna Nobilis is the largest bivalve mollusk found in the Mediterranean, reaching lengths of nearly four feet and residing at depths ranging from a few feet to several hundred. Once abundant in the Aegean Sea, this mollusk was harvested not only for food and shells but also for a unique material it produces: byssal threads, which it uses to anchor itself to the ocean floor. Researchers have been examining the adhesive qualities of these threads since the 19th century.

The characteristics of these threads are remarkable: - They are impervious to water. - They possess strength sufficient to keep the Pinna Nobilis anchored against strong currents. - One segment has rubber-like properties, transitioning seamlessly to a stiff, nylon-like texture. - They can be harvested for use.

Once the mollusk is dislodged from its base and opened, the threads can be carefully extracted. They must be washed, dried, combed, carded, and spun into thread. Burke estimates that about three ounces of usable material can be harvested from every pound of mollusk.

The history of sea silk is a blend of fact and speculation, with reliable evidence becoming sparser as we look further back in time.

The Known Facts About Sea Silk

> “And it did not suffice to plant and sow for a tunic, if it had not also proved possible to fish for clothes. For fleeces also come from the sea, inasmuch as the finer shells of mossy woolliness are adorned with them.” > > — Tertullian, De Pallio 3.6.2

Dr. Felicitas Maeder from the Natural History Museum of Basel, Switzerland, asserts that verifiable mentions of sea silk first emerged during the early Roman Empire. Tertullian, a Roman official, noted its exorbitant price around 200 AD.

Additionally, the oldest known piece of sea silk was discovered in Aquincum (modern-day Budapest), a former Roman city. In 1912, researcher Hollendonner unearthed this material from a peculiar limestone tomb where a mummy was found wrapped in resin-coated linen. Remnants of a brown fabric were located on the skeleton's leg, which, upon comparison, matched the fibers of Pinna Nobilis byssus. The dating placed this find at around the fourth century AD.

In her “Sea Silk Project,” Maeder highlights that even emperors recognized this material. Emperor Diocletian’s Edict on Maximum Prices from 301 AD, aimed at curbing inflation, included sea silk, pricing a tunic made from byssus fibers at 48,000 denari, a far cry from the few hundred denari for cheaper garments.

Remarkably, documentation from the Far East also exists. Elena Soriga from the Oriental University of Naples and Alfredo Carannante from the Research Institute for Archaeology and Ethnology note that Chinese records mention a unique material from the West.

Third-century AD chronicles refer to shui-yang (water sheep) fabric, known as hai-his-pu (western cloth from the sea). Thus, the flow of sea silk was not solely eastward but also traveled west along the Silk Road.

As we delve deeper into history, however, the evidence becomes less clear.

Changing Terminology and Bronze Age Sea Silk

Brendan Burke mentions that a term resembling byssus appears on the Rosetta Stone, though it translates from ancient Egyptian as “the linen of the king.” In ancient texts, “byssus” might refer to linen, cotton, or even sea silk, particularly during the Bronze Age, where it generally denoted luxurious materials.

Burke points out that byssus is referenced forty times in the Bible but is not specifically linked to marine silk. Soriga and Carannante suggest the term is often used in Hebrew and Akkadian to describe materials derived from plants, like special fabrics worn by royalty or priests. Nonetheless, there is some circumstantial evidence hinting at the production of sea silk in the Bronze Age.

Shells of Pinna Nobilis have been found in Minoan ruins at Knossos and Mycenae, with Burke discovering remnants at a site in Mycenae known as the Cult Center. A fresco from this location depicts a priestess holding a glowing object.

While many interpret this glowing object as grain, Burke posits that it may represent a version of Pinna Nobilis with a reddish hue. The presence of these shells in the context of the fresco serves as compelling evidence, although it remains speculative whether the Bronze Age Greeks actively harvested sea silk.

Intriguingly, this ancient form of silk is still produced today.

The Last Maker and Weaver of Sea Silk

> “Silk is usually made…by silkworms — but there is another, much rarer, cloth known as sea silk or byssus, which comes from a clam. Chiara Vigo is thought to be the only person left who can harvest it, spin it and make it shine like gold.” > > — Chiara Vigo: The last woman who makes sea silk, Max Paradiso, BBC News

Max Paradiso recounts his experience visiting Chiara Vigo, a sea silk weaver on the island of Sardinia, off the Italian coast. During his visit, she invited him to close his eyes as she placed a piece of fabric in his hands, so light he could barely perceive its weight.

He describes how this fabric transforms from brown to a radiant gold when exposed to sunlight.

Vigo dives to harvest Pinna Nobilis, sometimes requiring up to four hundred dives to gather a few hundred grams of material. She deftly collects the byssus without harming the mollusks, weaving it into exquisite fabric.

Despite the effort and rarity of her craft, Vigo chooses not to sell her creations but rather gifts them to those in need. She incorporates prayers into her work, evoking a sense of something profound. A striking image from Paradiso’s article shows Vigo holding a Pinna shell upright, reminiscent of the Mycenaean priestess depicted in ancient frescoes.

Thus, this ancient Mediterranean fabric is more than mere material; it embodies a mystical heritage.

A Rarer Silk Along the Famous Road

The Silk Road is deeply embedded in our historical consciousness, often utilized as a potent marketing symbol for contemporary government initiatives. Yet, the narrative is more intricate than traditionally presented. While silk flowed westward and gold moved east, numerous other fascinating goods traversed this route.

Surprisingly, the West had its own variant of silk, which was not merely a commodity but a rare treasure that commanded exorbitant prices. Those fortunate enough to witness its earthy tones gleaming like gold in sunlight recognized that these threads were imbued with an otherworldly quality.

This extraordinary quality may have led Mycenaean and Minoan priestesses to incorporate the fabric and its marine origin into ceremonial practices. Regardless, the allure of this material captivated minds from the West to the East along the Silk Road—a fascination that endures to this day.

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